The Rattlesnake Fern

The Rattlesnake Fern

Be not alarmed by the rattlesnake fern (Botrychium vir-ginianum, 5 in.-2 ft.) which has no special affinity for its namesake. This charming yet stately little plant is common and happy in rich shady woods. Here the plumelike sporophyll springs stiffly up amidst a cluster of sterile fronds. This fern fruits when small as well as large.

The royal fern (Osmunda regalis, 4-6 ft.) is a tall dramatic one with great high fronds. The root of it, as with some of the other osmundas, is the source of the familiar orchid potting material. It is most at home along the banks of streams where it rises in dignity to wave its dense and lovely fronds in the breeze. The spring fronds are golden brown and appear in clusters from the midst of its cushion of black wiry "osmunda" root.

The sensitive fern (Onoclea sensibilis, 3 ft.) is sensitive to frost, not to human touch. At the first real cold snap in the fall it folds up for the season. The coarse erect fronds are thin in texture. The sporophyll appears in midsummer. The dark green berry-like nubs on it are actually rolled-up pinnules holding spore cases. Do examine these delicate forms under a magnifying glass.

The toothed wood fern (Dryopteris spinulosa, or Aspidium spinulosum, 3 ft.) has graceful curving fronds and interesting scaly stems. You may wander through great stretches of it enjoying the feel of feathery fronds on bare legs, and stirred by the rhythmic swaying patterns created in the gentlest breeze. Notice how the fronds spring up in an almost perfect circle from the ground. This fern loves to find a decaying old tree stump to grow in.

Fern Culture

Ferns may be dug in the woods spring or fall. There are also a number of mail-order growers that specialize. If you bring your own from the woods, observe the direction they face and plant them so they face likewise. Your success is assured if you can match up the new location in your garden (including soil and exposure) with the spot where you found them. However, it is heartening to know that many ferns grow in more than one type of soil and location. They are far more adaptable than we give them credit for. This is one factor that makes them easy to transplant and grow.

Also note, as you dig, how shallow the roots of ferns are. Set them likewise in your garden. In general, a northern exposure is ideal; east or west is also fine, and, occasionally, for some few ferns, a southern slope.

While ferns need moisture in the soil they never want sog-giness. Good drainage is vital. For most species a safe rule is: Filtered sunlight or none at all. Ferns require absolutely no upkeep. Their roots are too near the surface for cultivation. Nature keeps a fine, cool, leaf mulch over the ground all year.

These constantly rotting leaves contribute to soil enrichment. The old fronds of some sorts brown and drop during the summer. If you are the neat type these can be trimmed away. We like this rusty brown note amongst the midsummer greens, so we don't bother to trim.

Ideal fern soil is, of course, woods soil. If you should want to create a fernery in a place where you must change the soil, the perfect mixture is equal parts sand, garden soil, peat moss and leaf mold. If you have no peat, change the mixture to two parts leaf mold. Of course if you plant ferns in an area similar to where you found them in the woods, you need move no soil, and do nothing further. Just let them take over.

But, on general principles, carry a bushel basket and shovel in the trunk of your car. We enjoy exploring woods and always have an eye out for some old decaying stump to scoop out for our newly planted ferns at home. Also valuable is the rich black leaf mold just under the leaf surface of the forest floor. In our wanderings we are often stopped by the beauty of a fern shape silhouetted against an old tumbling stone wall, or against the dark still waters of a stream. And we may pause to admire that one yellow frond curving up against a rough-textured tree trunk, and reflecting one small flicker of filtered sunlight.

Not only for their beauty, great as it is, but also because of almost no upkeep, ferns are for you. In other words, if you, like we, are pining to be a lazy gardener, plant ferns!

The Wonder Of Snowdrops

The Wonder Of Snowdrops

One of the first flowers to emerge in our snow garden at the end of the winter are snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis). Pure white and delicate they are, with wax like single and double flowers. Each cup-shaped blossom has six petals. The outer three are white, and the inner three striped green. Deep in the cup is a small cluster of yellow stamens. The blossoms hang down, so be sure to tip one up so you can observe the charming formation within. If you have a magnifying glass handy, take a really good look. The inner rims of the double flowers are "scrunched" and crinkled pale green.

Plant snowdrop bulbs 3 inches deep and about 3 inches apart and have about eighteen to a square foot. They also do best if allowed to form a good root growth before winter deeply freezes the soil, so set them out at the same time as the eranthis.

Would you like an unlimited supply of ink-blue, 3 inch-tall daisies that sit on a cushion of feathery green fernlike foliage? If so plant the so-called Greek anemone (Anemone blanda atrocoerulea) in your garden in the snow. Set a dozen tuberous roots in a cluster, each 2 inches apart and 3 inches deep.

Early Iris

Add a note of purple with Iris reticulata, 2 to 4 inches high, with utterly enchanting flowers touched with deep orange "fur" along their out curving petals. Stir a bit of lime in the soil under the bulbs before you set them. Plant 3 inches apart and in groups of a dozen. Another early iris is I. danfordiae, the golden-yellow counterpart of I. reticulata; both come at the same time. Danford iris grows but 3 inches high and is a must,

Both these iris bring fragrance to the early garden. A scent akin to that of sweet violets emerges as they unfurl into the first tentative warming days.

Then another tiny flower—glory-of-the-snow, chionodoxa, —comes poking up through snow and ice. The 4 inch stems may bear anywhere from 8 to 15 blossoms, each blossom with curving tiny petals and white centers. There is Chionodoxa luciliae, bright blue, plus the white and pink forms; also C. sardiniensis, gentian blue and huge, with 15 flowers to a stem.

The water lily tulip, Tulipa kaufmanniana, on 6 inch stems, opens out flat to reveal a white interior that shades to yellow at the petal base. When in bud the carmine-salmon-pink ex¬terior is a delight. Since the flowers fold at night and open each day they are constantly changing form. The folded bud is slim and pointed and utterly beautiful. The seed pods are also lovely—such interesting peaked shapes. It is gratifying to see them burst open and spread their seeds abroad. Thus they naturalize and increase from year to year.

The early crocuses—another of the "great eight"—bring white, blue and yellow to the little flower corner. The earliest of all is Crocus susianus— a gold crocus with a brown exterior. C. moesicus, a brilliant golden yellow, follows closely. Crowding along together come C. tomasinianus, pale lavender with a silvery gray exterior, C. seiberi, deep blue with gold in the throat, and C. korolkowi, yellow with a bronze exterior. Plant these in generous groups 3 inches deep and 2 apart. The clumps will spread each year—lending greater gaiety to the small winter garden. Often flowering with the early crocuses is the miniature yellow jonquil—Narcissus jonquilla simplex.

Last of the eight to appear are the scillas: Scilla sibirica, bright blue, S. bifolia, rich dark blue, and S. bifolia alba, pure white. They punctuate the finale of this winter garden. Further south all these plants would probably bloom in February, possibly January.

The Beauty Of Dianthus

The Beauty Of Dianthus

If you've ever seen pinks (dianthus) spreading its charming gray green leaf tones and giddy little fringed and fragrant flowers through the Cape Cod cemeteries and along the roadside, you'll know you must have them on your own home property. What a variety of dianthus are yours for the growing.

White, pink and mauve flowers with fringed and tangled petals —fragrant always. These long-lasting lovely little harbingers of early summer are utterly irresistible.

Consider the area where you'd like to naturalize dianthus. They need full sun, will hold their own in field grass if given a good start. They like light sandy soil but will thrive in poor soil if it is on the sandy side, not clay. When you have selected a possible area for your project, buy a few plants and set them out and see what they do the next year. This we did in a part of our meadow where the black-eyed susans and daisies grow. The few plants thrived so we started our project.

To naturalize dianthus in a field, dig a good spot for each plant, removing all grass roots and clearing a space around each planting site. The dianthus will take over if you give them a very good start. Keep grass from growing over them the first year or two. Water them during droughts the first year. After that the dianthus comes up along with the field grass and merges with it. The dianthus area may be mowed, along with the rest of the field, but not too close to the ground. Once a year is enough, preferably in late August or September, by which time the plants have had a chance to reseed.

Year after year dianthus will grow and multiply, sending their fragrance far and wide. Ours grow in our field within fragrance range of our sleeping porch. We are naturalizing many things within range of this porch, for we like to sleep on summer nights with nature's scents about us—along with the sound of the whip-poor-wills.

Sometimes hollyhocks can be established in the wild and sometimes not. If you have a sunny rich soil, perhaps near a pile of manure or compost, they are worth trying. Once I saw masses emerging from the edge of a dump in Vermont. If hollyhocks do take hold, they will return year after year, cross-fertilizing to bring a variety of colors and shades.

One huge day-lily, a nameless but beautiful golden yellow variety, flowers along a wall in semishade. It gets no attention from one year to another—yet through each July it is a sensation of lovely yellow trumpets. Nearly thirty flowers come at once on our plant. We can see it from the living room windows, but it is worth frequent trips outside for closer examination.

Tradescantia (spiderwort) is a plant that will grow and hold its own in tall grass and untrimmed areas. It sends up charming flowers—blue, pink, violet. The white with a blue center is the subtlest and loveliest of all. The first blooms open in June, then the plant rests in mid-summer. It flowers again in the early fall, persisting until frost.

Have you ever seen yucca, towering 12 feet high on the Santa Maria coast ranges in California? It is sometimes called Adam's needle, and might better be named Adam's Candle, for it rises like a great white torch—high on the steepest slopes. Yucca doesn't grow as tall in the east—maybe only 6 or 8 feet. But even then its striking form and fearsome foliage, with thread-like raffles on the ends of stiff leaves, make it a fine contrast to our lush feathery mid-summer plant shapes. Plant yuccas in a dry sunny spot and forget them.

Johnny-jump-ups are charming little flowers that will grow, among other places, in the gravel of your drive. Once you get them started on your place there is just no telling where they will turn up. They grow like grass through our vegetable garden and we let them, removing them only to plant other more important things. The little plants shade the ground, keep it cool and serve as a wonderful ground cover. Remember, though, they face to the south, so grow them where you can

walk along to the south side of them so you can look directly into their appealing little faces. They will grow anywhere in full sun or semishade—just start them off and let them go.

A selection of ferns for you.

A selection of ferns for you.

The Christmas fern (Polystichum acrostichoides, 15-18 in.) with rich dark glossy leaves, is one of the sturdiest and most dependable. Last year's fronds are still green as this year's new ones emerge. You can easily recognize the Christmas fern for each pinna is shaped like a long Christmas stocking, foot and all (foot against the stem). Light brown scales also cling to the stalk. One plant for years remains one plant. It spreads by spores alone, not by underground runners or by division of clumps.

The evergreen wood-fern, leather wood-fern or marginal shield fern (Dryopteris marginalise 2-3 ft.) weathers almost any winter and is found among snowy boulders in thickly forested areas. It is common, easy to grow, and spreads very slowly, remaining a single plant for some time. You will recognize this fern by fruit dots located on the margins of the pinnae, the chestnut brown scales on the stems, and its habit in the growing season of erupting its roots several inches up out of the ground!

The common polypody (Polypodium vulgare, 4-10 in.) sends a parade of erect fronds marching across the surface of rocky ledges where they are bright green whether surrounded by snow or by summer. They soften harsh ledges wherever they grow, also cling to steep banks, and make splendid terrarium material.

The ebony spleenwort (Asplenium platyneuron, 4-12 in.) is almost evergreen. You can find its twisting turning stem and delicate green pinnae snuggled in any bank of snow along with ground pine and cedar. It takes many hard freezes before this fern finally gives up. It is ideal for terrariums.

Bublet Berries

The berry bladder fern (Cystopteris bulbifera, 2-3 ft.) not only likes rich moist woods but is often found clinging to limestone cliffs. A fine ground-cover for large areas, it spreads rapidly. You will know it by its tapering almost vinelike fronds, but more especially by the tiny bulblets at the base of the pinnae that drop to the ground and sprout (hence the "berry" in its common name). It also bears the more conven¬tional fruit dots.

Bracken (Pteridium aquilinum, 3-4 ft.) which has a nice Scotch sound, does thrive in great sweeps in Scotland as well as in almost every country in the world. In England it was the basis of an old time medicine. And in rural areas many a mattress was stuffed with the fronds to prevent rickets! Bracken is an informal fern suitable for casual plantings. It is one of the most adaptable and will grow anywhere—wet, dry, sun, shade, high, low, hot, cold. Where nothing else will live the bracken fern will thrive, and spread furiously. The sporophyll edges curl under, and spore cases are hidden beneath these rolls.

The cinnamon fern (Osmunda cinnamomea, 3-5 ft.) is not only one of the loveliest ferns but also one of the easiest to grow. You will know it by the abundance of golden brown wooliness on its unwinding fronds in the spring. Also characteristic are brown wool-like hairs on the stem, a tuft of down at the base of each pinna, and several long slender lovely sporophyll during the summer. The fruiting stalk is a rich cocoa brown, erect and clustered.

The fragile fern or brittle bladder fern (Cystopteris fragilia, 5-18 in.) is not too fragile to grow the world over, even in the frigid areas of Greenland and Alaska. Thus it actually is a robust grower; the brittleness of its stems is responsible for its name. Clinging to shaded rock ledges, it also grows on the ground, and is among the first ferns to start up in the spring.

Use hay to improve your soil!

Use hay to improve your soil!

You may think of hay as that sweet-smelling stuff that fills the lofts of country barns with something soft for the young to bounce on. Perhaps in your youth hay came down a chute in the barn and you fed it to your pony, hoping he wouldn't nip your fingers. Or is hay to you that beautiful fragrance over New England meadows in early summer, when it lies freshly cut, neat and combed?

Whatever your previous concept, one thing is sure: If you are looking for a guaranteed low-labor method of soil improvement, hay can be one of your best allies. A thick layer of ordinary field hay will actually prepare any area for planting, literally transforming a piece of nubby ground into soft soil ready for growing plants. And no digging and sod removal are involved. All this will occur in eight months to a year, depending on how tough the field is.

Suppose you have a desire to plant flowering shrubs, or a hedge of the self-sufficient multi flora roses at the wilderness edges of your place, or where the area is thick with weeds, field grass, heavy turf. Perhaps the very thought of plunging a spade into such matted earth fills you with dismay. A disc harrow and tractor seem needed to penetrate. Suppose you would like to set out some fruit trees, but the place for each tree must be dug and prepared at least 3 feet in diameter, which is a prospect to give you pause. But with the hay treatment it will be easy to prepare these or any areas you wish to plant.

How To Plant Sans Spade

First you decide on the shape and size of area you'd like to plant next year, and then pile hay 2 feet deep on that area. The grass or weed growth beneath is deprived of air and light. No matter how tough its fiber, it soon dies and rots. Very likely you have noticed that when heavy leaves are left on a lawn, a brown spot develops beneath, so it is easy to understand how the grass under deep hay could completely disintegrate in a number of months.

Having piled on the hay, forget the whole thing till next year.

When you remove the hay, the area will be free of grass and ready to work. Roots dead and rotting under the soil surface are left to fertilize and add organic matter to the soil in your new planting. You should not have to do any over-all spading of the area. Simply trowel out enough soil to make a hole as large as each new plant requires. Depending on what you are planting you conceivably may want to remove the few unrotted roots encountered. In any case, run your spade around the edge of the area to sever live roots coming from the surrounding sod or scrub growth and thus prevent them from encroaching.

Where To Find Hay

How does one come by hay? There are many possibilities. Do you live near a parkway or in a semi-rural area where the edges of the road are mowed? If so, the workmen are usually delighted to deliver the raked piles to your place—saves them carting them to the dump. Have you a meadow that is cut annually? Or do you know anyone who has? Just ordinary meadow grass is fine for this purpose. And of course you can buy "spoiled hay." There is nothing sloppy or unattractive about spoiled hay. It is as dry and pleasant to handle as fresh cut material. It has merely been caught in the rain so that it cannot be fed to livestock. Farmers bale it for organic gardeners to use as mulch. It costs $5 a bale delivered in our vicinity, and $2 if we go and get it. Three bales would prepare an area 12 by 12 feet for planting. You take the bale apart and fluff up the hay as you spread it.

After you have laid hay thick on the chosen area, bacterial action begins in the soil beneath. As the hay decomposes it helps enrich the soil. Earthworms gather in abundance and thus aid in transforming both grass roots and hay into organic matter. Nitrogen in the soil is used up by the bacteria that decompose organic matter. Subsequently the nitrogen is returned to the soil many fold, but in the meantime supplementary nitrogen feeding may be indicated. A sprinkling of lime over the earth before you lay on the hay is not a must but does keep the material sweet.

You can prepare for planting and achieve the same end with compost topped by hay. Spread the area with layers of grass clippings, dead weeds, straw, pine needles, corn stalks, weeds or any organic matter that you would put in the compost pile.

You actually are building a compost pile "on the spot," on the place you are preparing. Then neatly cover this material with a layer of hay, or topsoil if you have no hay. The soil is not essential but looks neater. Add lime in the layers as you arrange them. When you plant the following year the hay or compost which has not completely rotted can easily be removed and used elsewhere as a mulch.

Salt hay is all right as a mulch but since it won't rot it doesn't contribute the same food value that fresh cut hay or other organic materials do. All winter under the sleet and snow as Christmas passes into Ground Hog Day, decomposition is taking place under your hay. Then come spring, when the snow melts away and the land dries up a bit, rake away the hay and there is the miracle of fresh new black earth. I must say we greatly prefer this rather indirect approach to digging up a new area for planting—and what could be simpler?

Ferns That Like Meadows

Ferns That Like Meadows

The hay-scented fern (Dennstaedtia punctilobula, 2-3 ft.) is found in sunny openings in rocky woods where its light green lacy fronds grow in dense masses. It spreads madly, and even when transplanted produces new fronds from underground runners all season. The fronds taper gradually at the tip. When cut, crushed, or dried, the foliage gives off a wonderful sun-on-the-meadow scent.

Interrupted-fern (Osmunda claytoniana, 4 ft.) is very like the cinnamon fern but the identifying feature is its freedom from tuft at the base of the pinnae. On the sporophyll the orderly march of pinnae up the stem is interrupted by a section of twisted curled dark brown spore cases—a most interesting feature and, of course, the reason for its name. Very hardy, very easy, very beautiful.

The lady fern (Athyrium filisfemina, or Asplenium filis-femina, 3 ft.) though delicate to look upon, is tough, and a rank grower. By fall it becomes raggedy and loses its color, but all summer its soft green fronds and feathery look make it a must. The curved fruit dots are one of its identifying features;

also, the pinnae increase in length sharply from the tip of the frond to the base, giving it a triangular look.

Maidenhair fern (Adiantum pedatum, 1-3 ft.) is a delicate, lovely species that grows in rich moist leafy soil. It will be content in a rocky, well-drained location, especially on a steep bank. In the spring the fronds uncurl in small wiry button¬hook designs of a deep magenta color. These fronds open into a sort of semi-circle pattern. The whole effect of the plant suggests, in color and texture, wild columbine, or meadow rue. This is the fern that dances. The fluttering delicate pinnae are ever in motion, so susceptible are they to every breeze. New fronds constantly emerging from the running rootstock produce fresh green foliage from April to September. This is one of the most beautiful of all ferns in its swirling patterns, its rhythms, and dancing grace.

The marsh fern (Dryopteris thelypteris, 2 ft.) grows under the speckled alders, or perhaps you'll find some plants in a sunny bog among the cattails, facing their fronds helter skelter in any old direction. This is a rampant grower. Its lower pinnate are very long, and the pinnules of the sporophyll appear pointed because of reflexed edges.

The New York fern (Dryopteris noveboracensis, 1-2 ft.), though related to the marsh fern, is different in that the fronds taper at both ends. New Yorkers are said to burn their candles at both ends, hence its name! The fronds, thin in texture, grow erect and are arranged in parallel ranks facing the light. Stems are smooth and scale-free. What a pleasant odor the fern emits when crushed, and what a fine ground-cover it creates, multiplying and spreading rapidly. Look for the fruit dots on the margins of the pinnules.

The oak fern (Dryopteris disjuncto, 1 ft.) is a delicate and beautiful triangular-shaped fern whose very pointed pinnae grow opposite each other on the stem. It thrives in the company of hemlocks and cedars and must have constant dampness and perfect drainage.

The ostrich fern (Pteretis nodulosa, or P. struthioteris, 4-7 ft.), a lovely plumy variety, reproduces from its underground runners one new plant every second year. It spreads most rapidly in rich wet woods. In July the short bronze sporophyll, resembling curled fronds, rises up in the center of the plant.

The Beautiful Benefits Of A Small Lawn

The Beautiful Benefits Of A Small Lawn

Although we enjoy tremendously our big meadow-lawn, we also get a great deal of satisfaction from the 12 to 15-foot swath of regular mowed lawn around the house. We have developed some easy procedures for its maintenance. All are in the let's-keep-it-simple vein.

We cut this strip of lawn each week. We feed it with a 5-10-5 chemical fertilizer in early April, an organic one in mid-summer and again in early September, and that's it. Our lawn is more "grass" than lawn in the orthodox sense. We have a democratic assortment of grasses in it and a lot of clover. It's heartening to see the clover in the quick, lush summer periods unfold its myriad furry white flowers, spread its seed, and grow thicker. Some say clover stains clothes and is slippery. But we love the flowers, and sometimes when we most need it we find a four-leaf clover!

Though our lawn is heterogeneous, it pleases us and feels fine to walk on, particularly bare-footed in the morning dew. This is supposed to do something special for you, I forget now just what, but something significant.

Permanently Improve Your Soil

The surest way to success with lawns, as with all parts of the gardening, is to work toward building up the quality of the soil. The slow-acting organic fertilizers do this. Applied midsummer and fall they gradually improve the earth. Among the best are dried ground fish meal, bone meal, pulverized sheep manure and shredded cattle manure, and wood ashes from the fireplace. But in the spring, especially in a new lawn, a quick-acting chemical mixture encourages rapid growth before crab-grass stirs to action. There is another advantage in using chemical fertilizers in the spring. The bacterial action needed to release food elements in an organic fertilizer does not occur until the soil temperature rises above 60 degrees.

Much spring grass growth occurs when the mercury is well below this. The elements in chemical foods are immediately available and promote a quick and welcome early growth. The lawn fertilizer compounds containing urea-form nitrogen are excellent and time-saving too.

The principal of developing a good lawn is to encourage grass growth when weeds are weakest. This means feeding twice a year: in early spring before the perennial weeds really get under way, and in early September when crabgrass and annual weeds have spent their vitality and there are still two months of good-grass growing weather before frost.

Don`t Worry About Weeds

How much weeding you do depends upon your temperament. We make good use of one of the long hollow tubes (Killer Kane is one of the trade names) that contain a liquid weed killer for spot treatment of dandelions and other broad-leaved weeds. Beyond that we do nothing. But if you do pull or spray crabgrass, do it early before it goes to seed. (The seeds can lie dormant in the soil and sprout many years later). So eliminate the crabgrass when young, level the spot and reseed with a good grass immediately. Keep the soil moist until seedlings become established.

Never weed unless it's really fun. My mother used to love it. In her seventies she'd settle for the afternoon on a cushion beneath a large hat with gloves and a basket. This, she always said, was her golf. Our "golf" is a host of other activities—flying kites, swimming, exploring woods. Well—you should take your golf where you find it, and if it is weeding lawns, more power to you. It really does improve them.

Rolling & Cutting

It does seem rather ridiculous the way we feed our lawns so they will grow, and as soon as they grow we cut—and complain about the need for frequent cutting. But then, a lot of things we humans do seem sort of silly and we keep right on doing them. Actually a vigorously growing lawn is best able to resist diseases and weed invasions.

Small lawns are fine. If you possibly can do so, keep yours small enough so you can enjoy it, with mowing quickly done and never a chore. A strip of green lawn makes a pleasant setting for a home. Looking from the inside out, we find it quiet and inviting. Perhaps a robin on the green is in a tug of war with a large and resisting worm. Or maybe a rabbit darts across. Considered from a distance, a house rising from a frame of lawn looks attractive and the fragrance of newly-cut grass is an additional joy. A lawn is indeed important but, for us, acceptable only if it is a small one. Let the rest be meadow!

Create your own garden retreat.

Create your own garden retreat.

You should arrange at least some part of your limited garden to provide an area where you can rest and think, a peaceful observation point. I prefer a natural "planted" space instead of the old-fashioned gazebo garden-house structure. Though we all want some gay flowers and brilliant sunshine, we also need the seclusion of a quiet area, a cool reflective private spot. Here you will almost taste the freshness of the air you breathe. You can listen to the mourning doves, and the phoebe—the wind rustling the maple leaves. Smell the warm dry scent of summer, the fragrance of the lilac drifting on the breeze.

Our own private retreat is a cool shady spot—a hillside above the brook. A hillside and a brook are, of course, not essential. They just happened to be there for us.

Bulldozed level, this terrace hideaway is twenty feet long and fourteen wide. Two spreading maples provide shade. We made a small retaining wall about two stones high (three in some places) to hold back the bank on one side, and hold the land up on the other side. A rope hammock is attached at one end to a cedar post, set for the purpose, and at the other end to one of the maples.

Bird and Worm`s Eye View

When you are in the hammock you are sometimes beneath the world and sometimes above it—depending on which side of the hammock you look from. Out one side you look up at the curve of the meadow. The land lies above, and you beneath. Out the other side you are in the greenery of tree tops looking down through leaves to the brook with a totally different perspective. This is, to our way of thinking, a pretty neat trick and it makes the hammock an ever-fascinating place to be.

The terrace-retreat itself is shady, but beyond the limbs of the maples the sun shines. Japanese iris grows in the sun fringing the area where we sit; so does Jacob's ladder, blooming from May on into July, the violet flowers touched with white, and each stalk of delightful foliage a small green ladder.

On the other side of the terrace a stretch of Dutchman's breeches spills down a steep rocky bank to the brook edge. The blossoms greet us in late April when the first days of the hammock begin. A pink and a white dogwood add to the shade and beauty. Lilies-of-the-valley (especially for fragrance) cluster beneath; foam flower parades in soft white along the bank; gold thread peeks from the leaves; jack-in-the-pulpit rises in dignity in the lea of the wall; white trillium, bloodroot, and red and yellow wild columbine bloom in succession; blue forget-me-nots and cardinal flowers thrive at the brook's edge; Virginia bluebells nod their bell-like flowers flanking the terrace up and down the hillside, and maidenhair, cinnamon, and royal ferns grace the area.

Though no pines stand in the vicinity, pine needles cover the terrace floor, for we have access to a fine source of them. Each spring we spread a carpet of fresh and fragrant needles gathered in two old bedspreads dumped in the back of the car and carted home. They contribute a pungent scent, a rich brownness, and a pleasant four-inch-deep rug, soft and resilient to walk upon.

A Place To Call Your Own

Haven't you some small area of your garden, a remote corner with no sun, an area of trees, a thicket perhaps, even a shady spot where growing things has been difficult? If so, with some pruning, replanning, and possibly additional planting you can create an ideal retreat complete with hammock, simple comfortable outdoor furniture, and possibly a few old stumps of special character. The area can be large or small—really tiny —and still achieve its purpose, still become an inviting spot to while away an hour or a day, a place dedicated not to doing, but to the simple art of being.

Our shady retreat has given us the opportunity to grow some of the loveliest of plants, ferns, some evergreens, certain shrubs, and many flowers. Most shade-loving plants need no special care after they are established.

Mountain laurel is a grand broad-leaved evergreen for the secluded shady area. It wants sandy, peaty soil, always acid (no lime). Rhododendron is another fine flowering evergreen. When you look out the window in winter, rhododendron tells you the temperature. When you see the leaves curled like cigars, it is very, very cold and you had better put on that extra sweater.

Moist & Acid

Azaleas in shades of crimson, pink, flame, white and yellow are especially successful in a woodland setting. Some are fragrant. The plants grow from two to ten feet tall. Acid soil and oak leaf mulch are beneficial. The white fragrant blooms of the swamp azalea open in July, later than the others. It does not need its feet in a swamp to thrive, but do give it shade and rich leaf mold soil.

Other favorite plants for shade are crested iris, countless varieties of native wild violets, and myrtle or periwinkle (Vinca minor). Bleeding heart (the tall variety) and begonias (especially tuberous) add loveliness. Blue phlox is lavender-colored with a meadow scent. Spiderwort has white and blue flowers and spidery gray-green leaves. Each bloom lasts only for a day, but many flowers continually come. Japanese anemone bears sturdy rose-colored blossoms. Mist-flower unfolds furry blue-violet blossoms in autumn, and spreads marvellously.

This shady area provides a splendid summering place for many of the houseplants which will also add a decorative note. Tuberous begonias in tubs will be lovely, and if by chance you are orchid raisers, as we are, here is the dream spot for the orchids to summer. They like morning or afternoon sun, so we hang ours (using cut up re-shaped old wire coat hangers) in the trees at the edges of the area, and set some on the retaining walls where they get sun until about eleven in the morning and again after four in the afternoon.

Rose Gardening in Spring

Rose Gardening in Spring

If you live in an area where you can start seeing the promise of spring in late March or early April, then you're an "early spring" rose gardener. However, if you live where March and April bring the season's best skiing, then just keep waiting out old man winter until your turn at spring arrives and then follow the tips in this article.

Early spring is a time of great activity in the rose garden as you prepare for the beautiful buds that will be sprouting almost any day. Here's a summary of what needs to be done in order to prepare your roses for the tough growing season that lies ahead.

If you covered your roses with dirt or other protective winter coverings, your first step is to gently remove the protective materials so you can introduce your dormant bushes to the warming spring sun and gentle rains that lie ahead.

Before beginning your spring pruning activities, cut back any dead and damaged canes that did not survive the winter. Be sure to clear away any debris and residue from around the bushes as well.

Prepare the soil to nurture your plants by adding some organic compounds. You can either buy pre-packaged organics from your favorite garden supplier, or you can mix up your own recipe using composted manure or mushroom compost, or any of the usual meal blends which can include alfalfa, cottonseed, fish or blood meal.

Work your soil with a spade or other tool if it has become too compacted during the winter or if you notice standing water after watering your plants. Roses require well-drained soil to thrive.

After soil preparation is done you can plant any new additions to your garden including container-grown roses.

Next it is time to begin your fungicide spraying regiment either immediately or, if you prefer to wait, approximately 14 days after you complete your pruning.  Opinions on the best time differ. The choice is yours.

Remember to rotate through different fungicides during the year to prevent any fungi from becoming immune to any one product.

Don't use any pesticides unless you see evidence of damage, but remember to keep a sharp eye out for aphids which are as much a sign of spring as April showers are. Hit them with a blast of water to remove them, or apply insecticide in a mister to the affected areas.

Imagine how hungry you'd be if you just woke up from a long winter hibernation! Well, your Roses are hungry too. The best way to coax any type of roses from dormancy to budding is to feed their little bellies now and every other week through the remainder of the growing season. Water well after feeding!

There! Your rose garden is ready for spring, but your work is far from over. If spring is near then summer can't be far behind.

Autumn rose care

Autumn rose care

September and October are your rose's finest hour. If you have faithfully followed our suggestions up to this point, you should start to see full, colorful, magnificent blooms as your reward.

Your work isn't quite through yet, however. While fall is the best growing time, you also need to start thinking about the coming winter months.

Your rose bushes are working hard to produce blooms which will delight you and make you proud. They need a lot of water to fuel the process. Continue watering deeply and do it as often as is needed to maintain growth.  If you are going to be showing your rose blooms then watering daily is fine as long as you do not use too much.

Keep applying water-soluble fertilizers until the end of September, and don't be afraid to use some of the commercially available bloom-boosting fertilizers. You can recognize these because they will have a large number in the middle of their formulation. Stop all fertilizing activity at the end of October so your bushes will be able to begin the journey into hibernation.

Conditions are still good for blackspot and mildew to form, so continue with your spraying program right through the end of October.

You can cut roses for bouquets through the end of October without harming the bush. If you want to let rose hips form, then just remove the petals of your spent roses.

This is also a great time to start planning next year's garden, so visit the web and start ordering catalogs to read throughout the winter. Order your new roses early while the best selections of the different rose types are available. Rose growers know the best time to ship your new bushes according to your climate zone. Always verify the details of the shipment with your supplier.

Miniature Roses are under rated!

Miniature Roses are under rated!

Whether you're planting miniature roses indoors or out, they are very easy to grow. Although these little guys have often been frowned upon because they give off little or no fragrance, they're the perfect accent to any home or garden. Miniature roses are practically maintenance-free. Just give them a "bath" once a week and they'll last forever.

There's a common misconception about miniature roses. When people hear the term "miniature," they assume these roses will make a perfect houseplant. Prior to moving your roses indoors, consider that miniature roses can grow up to four feet in height. This large house plant will undoubtedly need an ample source of light. The micro-mini roses however, only grow to approximately five inches in height and are just as easy to maintain. If you're still determined to keep your miniature roses indoors, there are several tips that will make caring for your roses a simple task.

Place your plant in direct sunlight. These flowers flourish in the sunniest windows of your home. If the stems of your miniature roses appear to stretch out, leaving wide gaps between the leaves, your rose is not getting enough light. You should either move the plant to a new location or provide supplemental light. Make sure to bathe your plant on a weekly basis. Spraying your plant will reduce the risk of a spider-mite attack. Gently mist the top and underside of the leaves. The spray will remove dust. Make sure that your plant looks comfortable in its pot. If the pot is too small, the plant will be cramped. If the pot is too large, your roses will be reluctant to grow.

Outdoors, most miniature rose types bloom from spring until the winter season. If you cover your plant with mulch, it will have a good chance of surviving frost and the coldest winters. You can plant your roses directly into the ground, a hanging basket, or in an 8 - 10 inch pot. Make sure your plant isn't shaded by large trees or anything that will cast a shadow. These little plants love direct sunlight.

If you choose to plant your roses directly into the ground, dig a good hole about one foot in depth and width. Take your rose out of its pot and gently untangle any loose roots. Place the roots down into the hole. Take loose soil and refill the hole so that your miniature roses are planted levelly. Water your plant thoroughly. These same rules apply to potting your plant.

Don't let the soil dry out. The first three weeks are crucial to any plant's health. Water your new plant every day for three weeks. These types of roses do enjoy their water! However, after the three-week period is over, your goal is to keep your soil moist. Check the soil on a daily basis. If it feels dry, give your plant a little water.

Miniature roses will look great in your living room or along the edges of your flower beds or anywhere your home needs a little burst of color.

Watch out for Blackspot on your roses!

Watch out for Blackspot on your roses.

Blackspot is a prevalent rose disease that is caused by the fungus Diplocarpon rosae. Should your rose bushes develop the telltale signs of Blackspot, remedial measures must be taken immediately. Otherwise, the bush will begin producing fewer blooms and the rose's ability to survive the winter months will be jeopardized.

Blackspot is easy to recognize in its latter stages, but might not be noticeable in the beginning. In fact, by the time blackspot starts showing signs, as few as 3 to as many as 10 days have already passed since the fungus first germinated. The first visible symptom is black-colored spots on the leaves. As the disease progresses, a yellow ring forms around the black spots and the spots spread through to the underside of the leaves. Spore-producing spots will be visible upon close examination. The black spots will continue to grow and soon the entire leaf may turn yellow. Many of the yellowed leaves will begin falling off the bush.

Blackspot is a fungus and as such, it spreads. It'll easily jump from one rose type to another for as long as it's left untreated. The fungus can survive on the fallen leaves through the winter, and also on the cane where it has been infected so growers cannot rely on the harsher weather to kill it.

Like most fungi, Blackspot thrives in warm, moist environments. Spores will germinate after 7 hours of being wet and when the ambient temperature is between 65 F (18 C) and 75 F (24 C). The warmer the weather, the quicker the disease spreads.

Proper care of your roses is the only way to prevent this disease from developing or spreading. Since spores can survive on fallen leaves, it's crucial during the fall season to rake up and remove all dead leaves from the ground and cut away any infected canes. In the spring, when roses are still dormant, head to the nursery and purchase wettable sulphur and a soap containing fungicide and then spray all rose bushes thoroughly with both. The spores cannot adhere to the sulphur, so the leaves are protected whenever they're covered. Because the sulphur will wash off in rain it's important to reapply whenever necessary.

The fungus needs a wet environment for germination, so take extra care to keep the leaves moisture-free. For example, plant roses in sunny locations as opposed to shady places so that the morning dew evaporates more quickly. Use sprinkler hoses when watering so that only the roots get watered and not the leaves. Water early in the day, so there's plenty of time for water to evaporate. Prune the bushes regularly so that air can flow freely among the leaves and be sure to allow plenty of space between your roses for the same reason.

When roses exhibit symptoms of Blackspot, first cut away affected parts and throw clippings in the trash, not the compost pile (remember the fungus on leaves won't die). Then spray all the leaves with sulphur.

If given a bit of tender loving care, your roses will produce beautiful flowers year after year!

All About Floribunda Roses

All About Floribunda Roses

The name 'Floribunda' is of Latin origin and means "many flowered" or "abundance of flowers" and this variety of rose certainly lives up to its name. These roses have been described as some of the most colorful of the modern rose types. Typically, their flowers are arranged in low-growing large clusters. The Floribunda rose is the result of crossbreeding a Hybrid Tea and a Polyantha in the 1920's. The Floribunda is considered by many to be a better breed than the Hybrid Tea because of its capacity to produce many blooms over an extended period of time. Many people grow them for display rather than to use as cutting-flowers. They're a beautiful landscape plant that can produce an abundance of color season after season.

Floribunda rose types, much like their ancestors, come in a large assortment of colors and styles. The difference is, however, that these flowers are much more vigorous and hardy than Hybrid Tea roses. Generally, Floribunda plants can grow up to four feet tall. A notable plant of similar size that has become increasingly popular over the last few years is the Rob Roy. Its roses, which offer a sweet soft scent, bloom in a deep red color. The flowers will bloom continually from spring until late fall provided there aren't any severe frosts. They're extremely bold in mass planting.

Prior to planting your roses, you should pick a garden location and get your soil prepared. Add a nice compost of manure or other organic matter to your soil. It's worth mentioning that active blooming roses flourish in a few inches of organic mulch. It's also suggested that you plant your flowers 18 - 24 inches apart from one another. You want to provide ample space for them to grow.

Dig a hole that will be deep enough for roots to spread without any restriction; about 8 - 10 inches deep is fine. If you wish, you can add bone-meal to the soil, as it is high in phosphates. Now you're ready to plant. Remove your plant from its plastic container and gently place it into the ground. Backfill the hole with loose soil and then pack any loose soil firmly with your palm. Repeat this process for every plant. When you're finished, water your new plants thoroughly. For the first couple of weeks, you should water your new roses on a daily basis. After that, a weekly irrigation should be sufficient.

Basic pruning should be done in late winter months. Most gardeners choose January or February, depending on their climate. Remove all debris and dead foliage from the plants and their flower bed surroundings. Snip any dead bark-like canes. Old flowers must be removed in order to promote new growth for the coming season.

Although you should try to maintain some shape to your roses, be gentle with the cuts. It's been noted by many horticulturists that Floribundas under one year of age flourish with a cane length of 6 inches. If it's warm enough you'll want to fertilize the ground during this time. Add organic matter to your soil and watch your flowers bloom beautifully in the months to come.

The Most Common Types Of Rose Diseases

The Most Common Types Of Rose Diseases

There's nothing worse than seeing all of your hard work destroyed by a rose disease or fungus. Roses can be weakened during the winter dormancy and become more susceptible to disease when the growing season begins.

Even if the bush survived winter unscathed, spring rains and summer's heat and humidity can open the door to a variety of fungus infections.

Here is a summary of the most common diseases which could pose a threat to your roses.

Powdery Mildew

This is a fungus disease that produces a white powder along the tops and bottoms of the leaves and along the stems. Left untreated the plant will not grow to its full potential and the leaves will die and drop off.

Rust

Rust looks like an orange powder which appears on the underside of leaves and will spread to other parts of the plant.

Blackspot

Hybrid tea type roses are blackspot resistant, but many other varieties are susceptible.  The disease appears as circular black spots on the plant's leaves which range between 1/16 to 1/2 inch in diameter. Left untreated, blackspot will destroy your plant's foliage.

Rose Mosaic

Unlike most rose diseases, which are fungal in nature, Rose Mosaic is caused by a virus. Symptoms generally resemble discolored mosaic patterns and yellow and green.

The only treatment is to remove the infected plant from the garden. Make sure that you also remove all leaves and clippings which fall from the affected plant.

If you are unable to stop the spread of fungus-based diseases by simply cutting back the affected areas, see you garden supply professional and ask about commercial fungus treatment products.

You can reduce the chances of your roses being affected by fungus if you follow these tips:

Always water the soil around the rose plant and never water the plant itself.

Clean your rose beds regularly and remove all clippings and fallen leaves.

Cut any diseased canes or blooms and dispose of them in your trash can.

Practice regular pruning and pay special attention to pruning out the center of the bushes to allow air to circulate.

Seal all cuts. Elmer's Glue works fine. It's safe, effective and inexpensive.

Feed your roses regularly. Wee-fed roses are better able to resist infection.

Choose disease-resistant rose types whenever possible, especially if you live in areas with high heat and humidity. Remember that disease-resistant does not mean disease-free. It simply means that there is a less likely chance of the plant becoming infected if you follow all of the tips that you read here.

Caring for Your Indoor Bonsai

Bonsai plants are the stunning result of an ancient practice. There are many people who choose to have bonsai plants in their homes because of their beautiful appearance. However, extra care is needed for indoor bonsai plants. This is mostly because they do not receive the full benefits of natural sunlight and natural weather conditions. They might appear to be hardy. But there are some bonsais that are quite delicate with regard to water and light.

Watering Your Indoor Bonsai

When you bring a bonsai tree indoors it will require lighting to replace the natural sunlight that it would have been receiving beforehand. Monitoring how frequently it is watered is also important. Your bonsai plant will also thrive if kept in a well ventilated area. The amount of water you give your bonsai hinges on which variety you have. Soil is another important consideration. There are those bonsai trees and plants that need damp soil, while others do just fine with drought like conditions.

Misting your plant might be a necessity. This will help to create a rainforest humidity in which your bonsai plant will thrive. If using a humidity tray, be sure to place the pot on some small rocks or a stand so it isn't directly immersed in the water.

Bonsai Cutting and Pruning

Indoor bonsai trees still require pruning and cutting on a regular basis in order to maintain their appearance. Simply because bonsai plants look as though they are frozen in time, does not mean that they do not grow. Indoor and outdoor bonsai plants need to be repotted somewhere between every year to three years, depending on the variety. Another important consideration is maintenance of the branches so it retains its shape.

Cutting back on the amount of fertilizer during the cold months is usually recommended, depending on the bonsai variety. This is due to the fact that there are certain species of bonsai that hibernate during the season. So they don't require as many nutrients as in the warmer months. Indoor bonsais may not fully experience the full cycle of seasons because it is in an artificial environment.

You also need to keep an eye on your indoor bonsai for pests and other irregularities. Spiders, mites and various other pests are very happy to make a home in your indoor bonsai. The best practice is to clean the leaves and branches with great care using a damp cloth or a brush.

By following these tips for bonsai care, your tree is sure to be an attractive feature of your home for years to come.

Grow Your Own Basic Herb Garden

No matter where you live in the world most cultures like to use herbs in their cooking to provide the flavours and aroma that we have all come to love. With the enormous spread in popularity of Gourmet Cooking shows on television we are encouraged to expand our culinary tastes to include dishes from all over the world . As most professional chefs prefer to use fresh herbs in their cooking why should we not follow in their steps and grow our own basic herb garden at home.

It is quite easy to put in a basic herb garden to grow the ones used the most. Most of the common herbs used as spices in cooking can be successfully grown in average soil but some do request rich soil, such as oregano.

Additionally, some herbs in a basic herb garden such as parsley are biennial in nature. This means the first year they are grown they will not be useful for seasoning. It is during the second year that the crop can be used. Ideally, with parsley, , plant a new crop of seeds one year after planting your first parsley plants so that in a couple of years they will overlap, providing u sable seasoning every year.

Most of the herbs grown in a basic herb garden such as, parsley, sage, rosemary, thyme, oregano and basil are tolerant of direct sun, but will require a minimum amount of water to survive. You can harvest leaves, sprigs and twigs from any of your herbs as they are growing giving fresh organic herbs for your kitchen.

However, some plants like thyme is a very forgiving plant and if it dries out will likely come back when an appropriate amount of water is given. Since some have different soil requirements and can grow under slightly different conditions, having them separated by variety can help get them started and keep them growing throughout their life.

Plant Herbs Close To Where They Will Be Used

In most cases it is easier on the grower to plant the basic herb garden close to the kitchen for easy harvesting of the fresh crop. Remember, the entire growth does not have to be cut and used at once. With the right care, the spices will continue to grow and be usable during the entire season. Drying or freezing the extra cuttings at the end of the season can possibly supply the spice throughout the winter, often lasting until the next crop produces the following year.

If you are little short on space why not consider companion growing? When planting a basic herb garden that would take more room than available, certain herbs can be planted among other plants, especially tomatoes. Parsley can play well with other plants specifically tomatoes, asparagus and among roses. Broccoli and cauliflower also welcome rosemary in their midst. Basil also likes to grow alongside tomatoes too.

The only problem with planting herbs among other plants is that they can be mistaken and trampled on inadvertently when weeding, pruning and maintaining the other plants in your mixed garden bed. A basic herb garden is a valuable addition to your kitchen supplies and really wont take to much of your valuable time to look after.

Keep These Home Gardening Tips In The Front Of Your mind

There are tons of different home gardening tips, indoor gardening tips, organic gardening tips, vegetable gardening tips – no wonder the average gardener finds it so overwhelming to figure out just which specific tips are going to be most useful to them. If this is your situation, you should know that out of all of these, there are a few home gardening tips in particular that are going to be useful for you to learn.

In order to understand and fully use these tips properly, you may need to learn a bit more about what home gardening is all about.

What it is

Home gardening is a type of gardening that continues to grow in popularity. Home gardeners can product tasty, nutritious vegetables and beautiful flowers, and to be a successful gardener you really need to take advantage of the different home gardening tips that are out there.

Home Gardening Tips

One of the best home gardening tips is to choose the right garden site. Which particular type of plant you are working with will determine plant placement as most plants need deep, fertile and well drained soil along with being exposed to full or near full sunlight. Being near a water outlet and away from competition from existing trees and shrubs is a great location for your garden.

Of course this is one of the most important tips of all because if you do not choose the right location for planting, you are not going to have any success.

It is very important in home gardening to select the right crops to plant. Deciding what vegetables to grow is one of the major decisions you will have to make and it is also the most important process you will worry about as a home gardener.

Vine crops such as watermelon, winter squash and cucumbers are going to require larger amounts of space and more work, while if you want to take an easier route you should stick to vegetable plants such as tomatoes and potatoes.

It really all depends on your skill level and the amount of time and effort that you are going to be willing and able to put into this, which will determine how serious you can get into your gardening. Regardless, these tips are going to come in very handy and help get you started.

Choosing Outdoor Furniture

Everybody waits for the summer season to arrive. The delightful sunny weather which exudes a spirit of independence leaves you enthused like no other time. Many would consider this time as the most opportune for revamping your garden patio with new furniture. With the passing away of winter your old stuff also start to look jaded and in ruins. Have you already noticed the rust spots on the chairs? If this is happening then consider getting some new patio furniture so that you can give it a completely fresh look.

If buying from Argos garden furniture then you will find that a large choice is available in a variety of size, material, design and styles, and you could strike some good bargains too. While buying, remember the wet seasons too. The best ones are those which last long, can take in heat and wet weathers with equal strength and which require low or zero maintenance.

This makes them rust and corrosion-proof. They come in various shapes and sizes, from simple stools to elegant bar high-chairs. When the prime factor in selection is how hard-wearing they are, then the perfect choice would be wrought-iron furniture. Not only do these have their characteristic age-old flavor with a Victorian touch to them but with some designs incorporated, they can give your garden patio a splendid facelift.

For making your furniture blend perfectly with natural ambiance, opting for wooden ones makes most sense. The color of wood is naturally earthy and this heightens the elegance of your landscaped garden patio as well as blends naturally with the surrounding plant life. Selecting this material is however not that simple and it involves a lot of labor. To make them immune to different weather conditions you have to apply wood preservatives and coatings.

Garden furnishings made of wicker offer you the convenience of weather-resistance as well as beautify your garden. Essentially plant fibers wickers are treated to incorporate durability for enabling multi-use. Wicker has the reputation of resisting both hot and wet weathers without compromising of quality, which makes it the best material for garden furniture. When buying patio furniture, it is wiser to buy the complete set and not one by one. Not only would you have a single design for each, the savings that you get from buying the bundle is enough to make you consider the idea.

Maintaining A Hydroponics Vegetables Greenhouse

Hydroponics is not only an easily-learned method of growing, it is also simple to sustain and is completely eco friendly. Would starting a vegetable greenhouse using hydroponics be an option? Children learn hydroponics early on in a classroom setting, showing just how easy it can be to grow your own vegetables. 

Hydroponics is Healthy for Your Family and the Environment

Using hydroponics not only enables you to enjoy bountiful fresh fruits and vegetables, but also saves water and benefits the environment by reducing the release of harmful pesticides and herbicides into the atmosphere. Lettuce, tomatoes, chilli peppers, bean sprouts are just some of the examples of easy crops to grow. 

When you choose a hydroponics vegetables greenhouse, you will be able to enjoy vegetables and fruits all year round.  Imagine having all the fresh herbs you want.  You can have a continuous supply of your favorite herbs such as basil, oregano, thyme, chives, chervil, parsley, sorrel, mint, sage, cilantro and dill and many other herbs. 

Advantages Of Using Hydroponics

A couple of advantages that the hydroponics growing method has over conventional field crops is that the roots are always exposed to oxygen, water and nutrients in a controlled environment.  Instead of setting up a sprinkler system or hauling the hose around outside, you can conserve water by growing your plants using the hydroponics growing method. 

For a field crop, the quality of its exposure to water will determine how much oxygen the plants are getting.  Not enough water and the plant will dry up from too much air and oxygen while too much water will not let the plant gets the oxygen it needs.  A crop field can compete with a hydroponics plant for growth only if the soil and watering system is excellent.

Air Fertilization for your Greenhouse

There are some special considerations that are involved with a hydroponics vegetables greenhouse and that includes the fact that during the winter, the levels of carbon dioxide can be lower in the middle of the hydroponics vegetables greenhouse and that means those center plants will not grow as much as the others.  You can remedy this through the practice of enriching the greenhouse atmosphere with carbon dioxide, a practice known as air fertilization. 

To get a good harvest from the hydroponics vegetables greenhouse you do not need to have any gardening experiance. To meet the requirements of the family a hydroponic vegetable greenhouse will provide you with the controlled environment you will need.

How to Get Started in Herb Gardening

Just imagine your pasta and pizza without the finishing touch of oregano or the delicious mince dumplings without the pinch of sage! The outcome is sure to be bland and boring. This is what the herbs do for you’re your culinary skills - they uplift the taste and flavor of any dish. In addition to that they make the dish look colorful and inviting. Thus the defining character of any dish is the work of appropriate herbs. While you can buy them in the local grocery stores, it is always better to home grow them in your backyard; the addition of garden fresh herbs will definitely make your cooking and dining experience even more enjoyable.

 

Plant type

Before getting started in the task of herb gardening, you must learn about the different types of herbs. The herbal plants are of three types:

Annual---the herbs like basil, chamomile, dill, chives, lavender, lemon, mint, oregano rosemary, sage, tarragon or thyme are planted each spring and live for only one season.

Perennial---the herbs like catnip, balm, lovage, marjoram or thyme live for many years. Although they shake off the leaves during winter, their roots remain alive and in the turn of spring they bloom into new foliage.

Biennial---The plant like Parsley grow for two years. The first season is for growing foliage, next the seeds are formed. After that they die at the end of the second season.

 

Choice of the location

For herb gardening the question as to where to plant is very critical. Not all the herbs have same light or temperature requirement. While most of the herbs need exposure to the sunlight for at least 6 hours per day, the herbs likes chives, cilantro, dill, and mint are grown in the shade.

 

Soil type

Make sure of the soil requirement of a particular herb before planting one. In general an extra rich and over fertilized soil is not suitable for planting good quality herbs. Over fertilization kills the flavor of the herb by reducing the essential oil content of the herbs. The herbs do better in the moderately rich soil. In addition to that, your herb garden must have excellent drainage quality, so that soil does not contain extra water. Growing herbs in raised beds or containers is also a good idea.

 

Daily care of your herb garden

Just like with vegetables, other herbs require about an inch of water per week. However, those planted in containers tend to dry out more quickly and hence need more frequent watering. To get a better grip, with the soil keep garden beds weeded.

One interesting thing about herb plants is: they have inherent power to resist pests and disease attacks. This is due the aromatic natural oil, they are bestowed with; the aroma repel pests and insects naturally. Still, herbs are susceptible to the attack of insects like aphids, and diseases such as powdery mildew.

 

Keep these information in mind when you are going to start your herb garden for the first time; your care for your herb garden will result into great pleasure everyday all through the year.

Requisites Of An Organic Vegetable Garden

In deciding upon the site for the organic vegetable garden it is well to dispose once and for all of the old idea that the garden "patch" must be an ugly spot in the home surroundings. If thoughtfully planned, carefully planted and thoroughly cared for, it may be made into a beautiful and harmonious feature of the general scheme, lending a touch of comfortable homeliness that no shrubs, borders, or beds can ever produce.

With this fact in mind we will not feel restricted to any part of the premises merely because it is out of sight behind the barn or garage. In the average moderate-sized place there will not be much choice as to land. It will be necessary to take what is to be had and then do the very best that can be done with it. But there will probably be a good deal of choice as to, first, exposure, and second, convenience. Other things being equal, select a spot near at hand, easy of access. It may seem that a difference of only a few hundred yards will mean nothing, but if one is depending largely upon spare moments for working in and for watching the garden and in the growing of many vegetables the latter is almost as important as the former this matter of convenient access will be of much greater importance than is likely to be at first recognized. Not until you have had to make a dozen time-wasting trips for forgotten seeds or tools, or gotten your feet soaking wet by going out through the dew-drenched grass, will you realize fully what this may mean.

Exposure.
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But the thing of first importance to consider in picking out the spot that is to yield you happiness and delicious vegetables all summer, or even for many years, is the exposure. Pick out the "earliest" spot you can find a plot sloping a little to the south or east, that seems to catch sunshine early and hold it late, and that seems to be out of the direct path of the chilling north and northeast winds. If a building, or even an old fence, protects it from this direction, your garden will be helped along wonderfully, for an early start is a great big factor toward success. If it is not already protected, a board fence, or a hedge of some low-growing shrubs or young evergreens, will add very greatly to its usefulness. The importance of having such a protection or shelter is altogether underestimated by the amateur.

The soil.
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The chances are that you will not find a spot of ideal garden soil ready for use anywhere upon your place. But all except the very worst of soils can be brought up to a very high degree of productiveness  especially such small areas as organic vegetable gardens require. Large tracts of soil that are almost pure sand, and others so heavy and mucky that for centuries they lay uncultivated, have frequently been brought, in the course of only a few years, to where they yield annually tremendous crops on a commercial basis. So do not be discouraged about your soil. Proper treatment of it is much more important, and a garden- patch of average run-down, or "never-brought-up" soil will produce much more for the energetic and careful gardener than the richest spot will grow under average methods of cultivation.

The ideal garden soil is a "rich, sandy loam." And the fact cannot be overemphasized that such soils usually are made, not found. Let us analyze that description a bit, for right here we come to the first of the four all-important factors of gardening food. The others are cultivation, moisture and temperature. "Rich" in the gardener's vocabulary means full of plant food; more than that and this is a point of vital importance it means full of plant food ready to be used at once, all prepared and spread out on the garden table, or rather in it, where growing things can at once make use of it; or what we term, in one word, "available" plant food. Practically no soils in long- inhabited communities remain naturally rich enough to produce big crops. They are made rich, or kept rich, in two ways; first, by cultivation, which helps to change the raw plant food stored in the soil into available forms; and second, by manuring or adding plant food to the soil from outside sources.

"Sandy" in the sense here used, means a soil containing enough particles of sand so that water will pass through it without leaving it pasty and sticky a few days after a rain; "light" enough, as it is called, so that a handful, under ordinary conditions, will crumble and fall apart readily after being pressed in the hand. It is not necessary that the soil be sandy in appearance, but it should be friable.

"Loam: a rich, friable soil," says Webster. That hardly covers it, but it does describe it. It is soil in which the sand and clay are in proper proportions, so that neither greatly predominate, and usually dark in color, from cultivation and enrichment. Such a soil, even to the untrained eye, just naturally looks as if it would grow things. It is remarkable how quickly the whole physical appearance of a piece of well cultivated ground will change. An instance came under my notice last fall in one of my fields, where a strip containing an acre had been two years in onions, and a little piece jutting off from the middle of this had been prepared for them just one season. The rest had not received any extra manuring or cultivation. When the field was plowed up in the fall, all three sections were as distinctly noticeable as though separated by a fence. And I know that next spring's crop of rye, before it is plowed under, will show the lines of demarcation just as plainly.

 

Gasen Redeye is the webmaster of My Oganic Food Info. Here you will get more information on Organic Gardening.

Using Fruit Trees In Small Yards

Almost monthly we find that we are being fed a new exercise, or diet, plan cleverly crafted to make us alter the way we live.

It is true that we all should really examine closely our current lifestyle with a view to eating a great deal  more vegetables and fresh fruit and taking far more exercise. One thing we might want to do is  to consider growing one or two fruit trees in our garden. However, as most yards are only rather small spaces, it is highly likely that you might be rather restricted in what you can do.

The majority of us understand that organic fruit and vegetables are much better for us than the alternatives but the increased cost is often too prohibitive. We also understand that the more fresh the fruit or veg is the  more vitamins and minerals it will contain. By growing our very own fruit trees we can produce organic fruit at a vastly reduced cost furthermore, because it can be harvested immediately before use, such fruit is also as fresh as possible.

The largest number of us live in a built up residential environment where it is common to have backyards which leave only an incredibly small area in which to grow a garden. Such backyards are highly unsuitable for large mature trees which can, eventually be the cause of a selection of problems. The roots can force themselves into foundations, branches can force themselves against walls and windows and they also restrict the light. The most obvious problem is that such a large item in a little backyard will simply look unsightly.

Even in the smallest space something immensely beautifull can be created. Professional landscape designers can create the most amazing plans but, with a fair bit of effort and time, it is possible to do this yourself. To do it properly you will need to study a little to understand which are the best shrubs, plants and trees to use and the correct way to use them.

If you have a incredibly small yard the inclusionaddition of a fruit tree will add beauty and interest. In the spring the tree will be covered in amazing looking, and sweet smelling, blossom. By the time of fall the tree will be covered in ripe fruit perfect for the picking. Even during the winter a fruit tree can still look rather interesting and such a tree will be a focal point.

It is now possible to buy dwarf fruit tree types, these are created by grafting the main stem of a fruit tree to carefully chosen dwarf root stock. Modern dwarf root stock, such as M9, is more reliable than older types of dwarf root stock. M9 root stock can cause a fruit tree to grow incredibly small but still producing a vastly increased amount of fruit.

Modern compact fruit trees can be cultivated in small yards as the dwarf variety produces a large amount of fruit from the tinniest of bushes. A dwarf fruit tree will not often be larger than 1.8m high but the growth rate can be decreased even further by cultivating it in a container. By following a well planned pruning regime you can restrict the growth while retaining a aesthetically pleasing architecture.

Amongst the most useful of fruit trees for the gardener with only a small yard, is the spur apple tree. While the tree is still able to reach to around 1.8m in height it has such an upright habit that it often appears rather strange covered in a multitude of ripened apples.

As well as apple trees there are dwarf varieties of fruit tree such as pears, plums, figs, cherries, nectarines and various other alternatives.

Growing Trees in Small Spaces

Everybody has different tastes and preferences and this is also true when it comes to gardening. Some people find one garden appealing while others may not, however, it is reasonably safe to say that the vast majority of folk enjoy trees. A quality garden often features at least one specimen tree or a small number of small trees as a backdrop to their flower garden.

Specimen trees are those types of tree which has something appealing about it that is rather unique. Such a tree may have beautiful and fragrant blossom or maybe unusual fruits. Other specimen trees may have unusual architectural qualities about them such as the monkey puzzle tree or corkscrew hazel.

Even in the smallest of backyards it is often possible to include a small specimen tree. When choosing a specimen tree it is important to choose one which is suitable for use as a focal point to your garden design. When restricted by space common garden and landscaping designs are simply not possible. In such cases you always need to keep in mind that you do not need to follow any set design, you need to adapt designs to match the space available. So it may not be possible to place specimen trees in a central location but this is not a necessity, often a specimen tree placed in a corner can bring that small portion of your yard to life.

Another factor in moving away from a centrally located tree is that is helps create the appearance of space. When placed in the centre of a small yard a tree can sometimes make a space appear smaller! One advantage to using trees in small spaces is that you will only need to buy one, or possibly two, trees. Therefore your budget may be able to accommodate the purchase of a more expensive, high quality, unique or unusual tree which further enhances your yards beauty.

Evergreen or Deciduous?

Evergreen trees are those types of tree which do not lose their leaves during the cooler months of the year. The great thing about using evergreens in a small yard is that there are often dwarf or miniature species available which means that it becomes possible to grow more than one tree and even a collection of evergreens with different hues. In such backyard designs it is possible to create a small garden which maintains color throughout the year.

Deciduous trees are those types of tree which lose their leaves during the colder months of the year. Although many consider the leaf drop too much of a problem when such trees are grown in small spaces it is a matter of opinion. Deciduous species often have unique qualities and their continual change through the seasons often creates different moods and adds interest to a small place. Species such as corkscrew hazel or willow can look spectacular during the winter months as their main appeal is their contorted branches which are not really visible with leaves present.

Other types of trees and shrubs can bring great interest to a small space. Dogwoods are available which have a variety of differently colored branches ranging from deep black through to red and even bright yellow. Maples and Japanese Maples are often a good choice for a small yard as they can be kept small and their brightly colored and ever changing leaves add color and interest to even shady corners.

Overall creating a garden in a small backyard is not an impossibility. In fact there are so many species of trees and plants available which are highly suitable for use in small spaces that you may surprise yourself at what is truly possible.

To discover more about trees and shrubs in small spaces visit http://www.landscapinginfo4u.com/